Birmingham Scooter Syndicate

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headset shit stripped

 
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blain
4 shockers
4 shockers


Joined: 03 May 2007
Posts: 328
Location: huntsville

PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 4:01 am    Post subject: headset shit stripped Reply with quote

so i noticed that my left mirror bracket was holding up my wind shield and right side mirror. turns out my bolt holes, or whatever you want to call it, are completely stripped on my right side. my bolts are nowhere to be found and my threads are stripped. what do i do?

currently i'm rocking a single mirror and no wind shield which is cool for now but when winter rolls around i'm going to need that wind shield.

so really, what the fuck do i do?
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LisaLisa
Cooter
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Joined: 14 Mar 2008
Posts: 451
Location: You're looking right at me and I'm still in your blind spot.

PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

there are little springy things you can use for retap.
http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.asp
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Bobby Peru
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Joined: 02 May 2007
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Installing a helicoil in there could be a tricky operation.

If you're not used to drilling and tapping holes, remove the headset and take it to a machine shop. Helicoil threads are much stronger than the threads it originally had. It won't strip again.

You could also drill out the hole, place a bolt of the proper threading in the hole and fill the hole with a modern filler rod such as hts 2000. Remove the bolt and you have brand new cast in threads which will be a little stronger than original. Helicoils will make the strongest threads.
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blain
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Joined: 03 May 2007
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Location: huntsville

PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i love you motherfuckers! Very Happy
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blain
4 shockers
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Joined: 03 May 2007
Posts: 328
Location: huntsville

PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i watched videos on helicoil and hts 2000. the hts 2000 seems to be the easiest route for me. just melt brazing rod with torch into the hole, heat bolt up, insert bolt into hole (ha ha), and wait for it to dry.

i still have to take off that goddamn headset.
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blain
4 shockers
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Joined: 03 May 2007
Posts: 328
Location: huntsville

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so just to be clear i need hts 2000 not hts 528.

HTS-2000 Brazing Rods for all non-ferrous alloys like Aluminum, Cast Aluminum, Aluminum Magnesium, Pot Metal, Zinc, Copper, Brass, Titanium, Nickel and Anodized parts.

HTS-528 Brazing Rods for any ferrous alloys like Cast Iron, Steel, Brass, Nickel, all hard surface alloys.
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Bobby Peru
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried the hts 2000 yet? I got some to weld up my p200 cases where I overported my barrel/case but the JB weld I originally put in there seems to be holding up good enough.

I'll have to try it out when I go crazy on my red Stella's motor.
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blain
4 shockers
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Joined: 03 May 2007
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Location: huntsville

PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

haven't used the hts yet. i was thinking about the jb weld route. you think it will be ok for a bolt hole that's being tightened and untightened, not a lot but the norm... whatever that may be.
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Bobby Peru
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JB won't work for threads. That's an inclined plane with a shit ton of force on it. The JB threads should shear right off.
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blain
4 shockers
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Joined: 03 May 2007
Posts: 328
Location: huntsville

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well that was easy.
the bolt hole goes all the way through. i just took the headset (plastic part) off and put a bolt through the hole with the threads coming out the bottom. problem fixed Very Happy
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